How to Build your own electric radio controlled aircraft

Tutorial: Build your own electric radio controlled aircraft

I previously indicated How to improve resistance to the impacts of an aircraft radio control electric with the engine in the nose.
This time we will see a simple aircraft manufacturing and see what physical forces must be respected so that fly properly, leaving us with good times to remember. It is a challenge that will satisfy us greatly when we see it fly and maneuver. For those who do not want to complicate have cheap planes in Palau Hobby or ModelHobby (helis) for example (no, I do not pay, but you thus saving the search).

We will manufacture a glider, the most stable and easy aircraft to fly (and build). As the most complicated part of build is the main wing, we are going to cheat and will buy one already prefabricated. This aircraft was the third that I built; After the failure of one carton. The second had better luck, was nitrometanol engine and flew very well until he broke a servo in the air and I lost control (of this I have a video of your penultimate flight )).

Material needed:

That was my station... well be controlled with it... what those times...
  • Wing glider (in my case a Seagull) about 15 euros, spare parts for sale in stores radio and Juguetecas.
  • Battery for glider, the more lightweight and powerful best.
  • Control of 3-channel receiver and minimum of necessary channels.
  • 2 servos for rudder and elevator, powerful and small, I have used pico-servos of only 15 Gr. of weight each.
  • Gutter electrician of about 25 mm. wide X 1 mt.
  • Adjustable electronic relay which from the signal of the receiver will give power to the motor.
  • Powerful electric motor for aircraft electric, the more lightweight and powerful best.
  • Propellers, retractable is not break to sink into the Earth, on sale in shops of model airplanes and radio control.
  • Adhesive epoxy two-component fast drying (5-10 minutes).
  • Scissors.
  • Tape packing transparent to reinforce the wing.
  • Blade (cutter).
  • Pliers (optional).
  • Loctite (is good in cases where the epoxy does not serve).
  • Soldering iron 40W soldering some cables (important to respect the polarity).
  • A dremel or similar would be very suitable for cutting plastic and make holes (optional).
Material required; the ketchup and mobile are not necessary ;-)

Steps to follow

Best to not spend much money to take other damaged aircraft parts electronic, but the servos may have to buy them. Cut a piece of gutter of about 70 cm. for the base, where Iran electronic components.
The another piece will be useful to tie the wings with two screws and to change position over other gutter, slipping. To firmly hold the I've put a bit of styrofoam between the wings and the gutter, as seen in the following image.
If you look at the image, the wings carry the entire surface transparent tape to make them more resistant to impacts; the foam holds little hits but with elastic for over better much (tested) tape. I've also put small pieces of foam from a supermarket meat tray to plug holes in the wings where the Seagull takes the engines.

As came included parts of the magnet on the end of the wings, I have placed two made of two pieces of bleach bottle subject with screws (it is not the most appropriate, but in the end...):

Here see the wings on the base (in the gap between gutter and gutter have put the power off switch drive (two wires are going to the battery protruding).)
This is important: With the position of the battery (it is the element of more weight) have to play until the center of gravity is on the axis of the wing.
In this image already we have pasted the servos and receiver with epoxy, as we have put a motor on top strapped to the duct with screws and two pieces of hard plastic and a few rubber bands, emulating seaplanes with central engine. Later he would change that position since in this way the center of gravity much rose and made it more difficult to govern.
In the image below we can see the detail of the servos, which will be attached to the tail, made of cardboard weakened in the area where should twist. With tape we reinforce it, as we already did with the wings.

The initial engine detail, which although beautiful, ineffective.

Look at the support of the engine with a wooden stick to prevent it from wandering when accelerating:

Detail of the mooring at the helm with 1 mm steel rod and plastic scraps and screws. You have to cut the bottom corner so that the lift does not stick up.

Detail of the tail to the full; stabilizer (rear wing) is inserted into a slot that is practiced at the gutter along. The servos must regulate them by loosening the screw and placing them in such a way that they can do all their strength.

At the front, anticipating hits, put the battery cover foam (got it a computer motherboard packing) and expanded polystyrene to cushion them.

This is the result after the first flight. The tail was made a jumble of cables. It is time to change the design to a front engine, placing the battery under the base of the wings.

Detail of the new engine, heavier but more potent with few revolutions and retractable propeller.

And this is the plane that I enjoyed three years ago of several majestic flights, up to that on the third landing broke the lower gutter by half, which had weakened by holes of the first engine. Pity to not record any flight of this.

That will start in this fascinating world, I recommend you to start an aircraft carrying the engine behind the wings. Will last you longer;-).

Attention:These aircraft despite be electric can take large speeds (especially if can in chopped ;-) by what can cause damage to people or materials.) Used only in open and empty spaces or you get a public liability insurance to have fun safely.